The Beginners Brewpot

by Richard Grzelak

August 1994

Getting Started/Extract Brewing


In the last several columns, we have discussed the various factors that contribute to the final character of the beer. This month we will explain the process involved in producing an extract beer. Please keep in mind that no one technique is better than another, and that some of the steps involved may differ from person to person. Ultimately, the most important consideration is the production of a satisfying glass of beer.

Most brewing supply stores can get the novice brewer started for less than $100.00. The following minimum equipment is recommended..

1 Large Brewing kettle (minimum 4 gal.)
1 carboy (5 gal.)
1 Food grade bucket with cover (7+ gal.)
1 Thermometer
1 Hydrometer
1 fermentation lock
2 Siphoning tubes
1 Bottle Filler (optional. but recommended)
1 Bottle washer
Bottle caps
Bottle capping device
1 measuring cup
2 racking tubes
3 Empty cases of 12 oz. bottles, or 2 cases of Weiss beer Bottles
1 Dieters Scale
1 Grain bag

Finally, although it is not really a piece of brewing equipment, the purchase of a 30 gallon plastic garbage can with lid is also recommended. This makes bottle handling much easier. It can be used both to sterilize the bottles, and remove labels. Labels can easily be removed from bottles by first putting the bottles in the clean garbage can, pouring 1 quart of ammonia in the container, then filling it up to cover the bottles with luke-warm water. Some bottles may float to the top, so it will be necessary to flood them. Because of the caustic nature of the solution, the use of rubber gloves is recommended for this procedure. Allow the bottles to sit in this solution for at least 24 hours, and the labels should readily fall oft. Longer time may be required for labels which are foil lined. The garbage can should be covered while the bottles are in solution so as to reduce the amount of ammonia that escapes.

After the labels are removed from the bottles, the are ready for sterilization. Rinse the bottles thoroughly, and set the aside. Slowly empty the garbage can of ammonia solution, as there will probably be many loose labels remaining. Rinse the garbage can several times, then put the label-free bottles back in the can. Add a cup of unscented bleach to the container, and fill with water to cover bottles. Less bleach may actually be used to sterilize the bottles, but it is best to err on the side of safety. The lid should be replaced on the garbage can, and the bottles may remain in this solution indefinitely. You are now ready to begin brewing.

For the purpose of this discussion, we will be making a simple brown ale. The basic recipe is as follows: Basic BROWN ALE (Ingredients List) 6 Lb.. Spray Malt (pale) or 1-3 lb. can Amber extract (Un-hopped) & 3 Lb. Spray malt (pale) 1 lb. Crystal Malt (This can normally be crushed at time of purchase) 2 Oz. Fuggles or Kent Goldings hop pellets 1 packet ale yeast.

This is an extremely simple recipe, which will produce a satisfying beer. The procedure is as follows:

1.) Add 2 gallons of water to pot and bring to boil.

2.) When water is brought to boil, add spray malt and extract. The extract should be soaking in hot water for at least 15-20 minutes so as to dissolve any sugars which may have hardened during storage.

3.) The crystal malt is optional but it will greatly improve the beer by adding a nutty-sweet character to it. The crystal malt should be placed in the grain bag, and the bag taken outside and tossed several times so as to remove the husks. Add the malt bag to the pot, and stir.

4.) Bring the malt solution to a boil, monitoring carefully so as to avoid boil-over.

5.) Once the solution starts to boil, stir furiously, and slightly reduce heat. The solution will the be reduced to a rolling boil.

6.) At this point, remove the grain bag, and add about 1.5 oz. hops., reserving at least 1/2 oz. for later use. The surface tension of the wort will be change, so another boil-over is possible. Monitor the pot, stirring the solution regularly.

7.) Boil the wort for at least an hour to dissolve the acids From the hops.

8.) When about 15 minutes remain in the boil, dissolve the yeast in about a cup of luke-warm water (no greater than 90 degrees)., and cover the yeast.

9.) Add about 1/2 of the remaining hops to the boil, and stir.

10.) Remove wort from heat after an hour and pour into sterilized food grade bucket. The bucket should be marked from the bottom up in quarts for the first 2 gallons, then in 1/2 gallon increments to the seven gallon level.

11.) Fill bucket with cold water to about the 5 1/2 gallon level. (in summer, this will bring the temperature down to about 8~ degrees, in winter, about 70 degrees).

12.) Use the hydrometer to take a gravity reading. This will be the starting gravity.

13.) Add yeast solution and remaining hop pellets and cover.

The fermentation process will now begin, and should be obvious in about 24 hours. Allow the beer to ferment for at least 4 days, or until the activity starts to slow down. Once the activity slows down, siphon the beer into the carboy, filling it as close to the rim as possible. Obviously, the carboy and the fermentation lock should be sterilized prior to use. Put the fermentation lock in the carboy, and find a cool, dark place for storage. After about 2 weeks have passed, the bubbles in the fermentation lock

should start to slow down. When there is very little activity i.e. bubbles take a minute or more to form, take a gravity reading with the hydrometer. Once the reading stabilizes, you are ready to begin bottling. If the beer has been sitting in the fermenter for a long time, you may have to add some more yeast, preparing it as directed in step 8 above. Prepare for bottling as follows:

1.) Siphon the beer back from the carboy into the food grade bucket.

2.) As this is happening:

A. Boil bottle caps (only if plastic lined, if cork lined, ignore this step.)

B.. Some books recommend adding 1/2 teaspoon of sugar to each bottle for priming. This is a great time waster and should be avoided. Although corn sugar is used by many for priming, the use of sprayed pale malt will result in a superior product. To one cup of boiling water, dissolve 1/2 to 3/4 cup of sugar for priming.

C. Pour sugar solution into beer and add yeast if necessary. Clip the bulb off one of the racking tubes and affix to the siphoning hose with the bottle filler. Begin filling bottles, cap, and then seal them. The beer will be ready to drink in about a week, but will greatly improve if allowed to age for about a month. Be sure to store the beer fin a cool, dark place so as to avoid getting it light struck. This then, is a basic method of making an extract beer, and can probably be simplified even more. More important than method however, is the practice of good sanitation technique, and if it is faithfully executed, bad or infected beer can be avoided.